Kristen Stewart as Bella Swan in Twilight- Make-up tips

(Prom Scene)

Make-up by Jeanne Van Phue

With the addition of an eye shadow and two lip products, make-up artist Jeanne Van Phue used the same products for the prom scene as she did for the rest of the film. “I used a heavier hand in my application of the makeup for the prom,” said Van Phue.

Skin Care Shiseido Ultimate Sun Protection Cream SPF 55 Foundation SK-II Air Touch Foundation in OP-3 Concealer Flawless Face Foundation/Concealer is a must have in Van Phue's make-up kit. The product was made for burn victims. "Once the skin is cleaned, apply to blemishes, discoloration or any imperfections. It must be powdered for it to set; this makes it water resistant." Van Phue uses Flawless Face Finishing Powder to set the concealer. Powder M.A.C. Blot Powder/Pressed in Light Blush Visiora Compact Powder in PC 103. Van Phue loves this blush because, despite being pale, if you apply it heavier “it will make the cheeks pop more, but not make you look clownish.” She blended it slightly up into the temples and a little into the hairline. Eye Shadow M.A.C. Eye Shadow in Blanc Type, Flute, Wedge and Handwritten. Van Phue applied Blanc Type as a base to the entire lid and brow bone, Flute on the lower lid, and a combination of Wedge and Handwritten across the crease and out toward the temple. “Handwritten is a deep, dark color so use it sparingly. It can get too dark and look a little muddy so be careful.” Van Phue suggests lifting a little eye shadow on to the brush and tapping it to get rid of the excess. “Be careful: Sometimes you can put too much shadow onto the brush and it will sprinkle down to your cheekbones and under your eyes and make a mess.” To fix this problem she recommends cutting or tearing a piece of tissue to fit under the corner of the eye and out over the cheekbone. Dampen the edge so it will stick to your face and the excess shadow will fall onto the tissue. Alternatively, she suggests waiting to apply foundation under the eyes and on the cheekbones until after you have finished the eye make-up. This way you can clean it after you have applied your shadow and then apply your foundation afterward. When applying shadow, Van Phue recommends using the back of your hand as a palette to mix the colors. If necessary, apply a little more shadow to darken if it is too light. “It is much easier to add shadow than it is to remove,” she said. Eye Liner With an angled brush, Van Phue applied a very thin line of the combined eye shadow colors (see eye shadows above) as an eye liner to the top lid—as close to the lash line as possible. “Apply the line from the inside corner of the eye to the outside corner, graduating the line a little thicker toward the outside. Smudge so there is no line of demarcation.” As close to the lower lashes as possible, she applied a line from the inside bottom corner out, meeting at the corner from bottom to top. “Blend out with a clean, firm brush or a rubber tip applicator. Bend it upward in a slight cat-eye fashion, making sure the shadows are well blended.” Mascara Smashbox Limitless Lash Mascara in Black Waterproof. Before applying mascara, Van Phue curls the eyelashes with an electric eyelash curler: “It does not break your eyelashes or give them that strange, unnatural bend you get when using a conventional eyelash curler,” she said. She suggests Touch Beauty Heated Eyelash Curler or Sephora Brand Professional Heated Lash Curler. The curler has a straight wand and “is very easy to use. All you need to do is bend the eyelashes upward and hold.” After 30 years as a professional make-up artist, Van Phue only uses waterproof mascara. “Women cry, perspire and sometimes rub their eyes unknowingly. Waterproof mascara doesn't run or smudge. It is harder to remove, but with an oil-based make-up remover it is worth the extra effort. I prefer my actors to look flawless, not like raccoons.” Because of the heat and lights on a set, actors’ make-up can run down their faces. “This happened to one of my actors on a set once. I had to stop and reapply, so now I only use waterproof mascara.” Lips Laura Mercier Skincare Lip Treatment Kit for Lips, Smashbox Lip & Lid Primer, Benefit Silky Finish Lipstick in Good to Go, Vincent Longo Lip Pencil in Naked and Benefit Lip Gloss in Zone Out. After using Laura Mercier’s Lip Polish and Lip Conditioner for exfoliation and Smashbox Lip & Lid Primer, Van Phue lined the lips with the Naked lip pencil then used Good to Go heavily. She then used her finger to lightly tap Zone Out gloss in the middle of the bottom lip.

Photo: Peter Sorel. ©Summit Entertainment

Make-up artist Van Phue had to submit preliminary artwork for Twilight. “I had worked with the director before, but she wanted sketches,” said Van Phue, who collaborated with restoration artist and sculptor Kathy Shorkey on these. “She described what she wanted and I met her with my vision.”

Director Catherine Hardwicke wanted the characters as close to the descriptions of author Stephenie Meyer as possible. This meant Kristen Stewart had to wear brown contact lenses every day to achieve “large chocolate brown eyes,” explained Van Phue.

The biggest challenge on the set was the rain. “We were outside all the time, and it rained the entire time we were there,” Van Phue said. “Most of the shots were exterior, and trying to fix make-up in the rain with wet face and wet brush was difficult.” The experience made her a convert to SK-II AirTouch make-up. “It goes on flawlessly—no smudges or streaks,” she said. “And I accidentally found out it was water resistant.”

*This was first published in Issue 75 of Make-Up Artist magazine.

Skin Care

Shiseido Ultimate Sun Protection Cream SPF 55

Foundation

SK-II Air Touch Foundation in OP-3

Powder

M.A.C. Blot Powder/Pressed in Light

Blush

Visiora Compact Powder in PC 103

Eye Shadow

M.A.C. Eye Shadow in Blanc Type, Flute and Wedge. *Flute was a limited edition color and is no longer available; Girlie is an equivalent (it's in the Satin category).

Mascara

Smashbox Limitless Lash Mascara in black waterproof

Lips

Smashbox Lip & Lid Primer and Benefit Silky Finish Lipstick in Good to Go (a plum/brown color)
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